Katergo

Katergo is the postcard beach of Folegandros: a strip of coarse sand and pebbles wedged between two bare headlands on the south coast, with deep turquoise water and nothing built on it at all. It is the most photographed beach on the island and the least comfortable, and that trade-off is the whole point.

How to get there

By ATV it is 6 km from Chora, the last 2 km on dirt track. This is the one beach where a quad genuinely earns its keep: the surface is loose and stony, the track ends at a parking spot on the shoulder above the bay, and you finish on foot down a steep path to the sand. A scooter is the wrong tool here, and riding off the marked track is forbidden and voids your insurance.

On foot the classic approach starts at Livadi, the beach south of Karavostasi: about 30 minutes on an exposed coastal path, with no shade and no water anywhere. Ride or take the bus down to the port, leave the vehicle at Livadi and walk from there. Early morning or late afternoon only.

Small boats usually run from Karavostasi and Agali in July and August, several times a day. It is by far the easiest way in, but you are tied to the return trip, so agree the arrangement before you step aboard and expect it to be cancelled if the wind gets up.

What to expect

Nothing at all: no sunbeds, no taverna, no showers and no shade. What you carry in is what you have, and the rubbish leaves with you. The bay is sheltered from the meltemi, so it is often calm when the north coast is unswimmable, and the water deepens fast, which makes for excellent snorkelling and poor paddling for toddlers.

Nudism is normal towards the far end of the beach and nobody minds either way. The rhythm of the day is simple: empty at nine, busy from about eleven when the boats arrive, quiet again after four. In June and September you may share it with five people.

Tips

The best hours are early morning, before the boats, or after four. Wear shoes with grip for the path, take more water than you think you need, and a beach umbrella if you can carry one.

Nearby

Livadi is where the path starts, Karavostasi has the port beach and Agali the tavernas. Read our full Katergo beach guide and the Karavostasi port guide before you set off. Road Runner rents 4x4 quads with helmets, free delivery to the port and 24/7 assistance: see ATV rental and rental prices.