Hidden Beaches of Folegandros: How to Reach Them by ATV, on Foot or by Boat

Folegandros has one paved road and four beaches on it: Karavostasi, Livadi, Agali and, with some goodwill, Agios Nikolaos. Every other beach is "hidden" in the practical sense: you reach it by dirt track and ATV, by footpath, or by small boat. This guide sorts them exactly that way, because how you get there decides which vehicle you rent, what time you start and what you carry.

For the ranking of every beach with a comparison table see the beaches guide; for the filters by access and facilities the beaches hub. Here we talk only about the eight that take effort.

The four beaches beyond Ano Meria all start the same way: 5 km of asphalt from Chora to the village and then dirt. A scooter is not built for these tracks and is not covered by the insurance off the asphalt; the ATV is the tool.

• Livadaki: 3 km of dirt towards the lighthouse and a 15-minute path. Sand and pebbles, a couple of tamarisks, no facilities, sunset into the sea. The easiest of the four.
• Ambeli: 2 km of dirt and a 10-minute steep path down a ravine. Pebbles, no shade, sheltered from the meltemi, nudist-friendly. The hardest and the quietest.
• Ligaria: 3 km of dirt and a 15-minute path. Pebbles, no shade, exposed to the north wind; calm days only.
• Agios Georgios: 4 km of dirt right to the beach, no path. Sand and pebbles with tamarisks, the widest bay of the north, useless in a meltemi.

Three beaches are reached only on foot, and all of them start from asphalt, so a 125 scooter is enough for the trailhead.

• Fira: 20 minutes from the eastern end of Agali, under the cliffs. Dark pebbles, no shade, no facilities, a view to the sunset. You park at Agali.
• Galifos: 10 minutes from the western end of Agali, on the way to Agios Nikolaos. A little shade, snorkelling, nudism, a few rooms.
• Vardia: 10 minutes north of the port, above the rocks. Pebbles and sand, no shade, empty even in August.

Katergo belongs here too: the path from Livadi takes about 30 minutes without shade, or 2 km of dirt track by ATV and then the same path. For every route with durations and gear see the hiking guide.

In summer two small boats make the hidden beaches easy for anyone who wants neither dirt nor path.

• From Agali: a small boat to Galifos, Agios Nikolaos and, on some days, Katergo, returning in the afternoon. Ask at Agali in the morning for the day's sailings.
• From Karavostasi: excursion boats for the tour of the island and the south-coast beaches, with Katergo as the main stop and Chrysospilia on the way. See the port guide.

Sailings depend on the weather and are cancelled in a strong meltemi, so do not rely on a boat for the return unless you have confirmed it. A scooter to Agali or the port is all the vehicle you need for this way in.

None of the eight has a taverna, a shower or a sunbed. Water, an umbrella, closed shoes and water shoes are compulsory; the rest is on each beach page.

• Insurance: riding off the marked track, taking the vehicle down a footpath and a scooter on a dirt track all void the cover. See the rental terms.
• Water: two litres per person; none of the eight has a tap.
• Wind: in a meltemi the north coast is dangerous for swimming and the boats are cancelled; choose Ambeli, Galifos or Katergo.
• Signal: weak or absent in the coves; tell someone where you are going.
• Light: the paths and tracks are unlit; come back before sunset or with a torch.
• Nudism: usual at Katergo, Livadaki, Ambeli, Ligaria, Fira and Galifos, with discretion; not at Agios Georgios and Vardia, which are family beaches.

For the roads and parking see the driving guide; for which vehicle fits your licence the licence guide.