Hiking in Folegandros: The Old Paths, the Lighthouse and the Beaches on Foot

Before the asphalt, Folegandros had only paths: stone-paved mule tracks between dry-stone walls, linking Chora with Ano Meria, the fields with their threshing floors, the villages with the beaches. Most of them still exist, and a network of eight marked trails, numbered 1 to 8, keeps them open.

The island is 12 kilometres end to end, so no walk is long; the difficulty is the sun, the lack of shade and the loose stone. The best months for walking are April to June and September to October; in July and August you walk early in the morning or for the sunset.

A scooter solves the problem of the return: you ride to the trailhead, walk down to the beach and walk back up to the parking. For the rest of the island start with the Folegandros travel guide.

The island's classic walk, trail 1: about two hours from the edge of Chora to Ano Meria, on a stone-paved path that rises and falls along the island's spine, with sea on both sides, threshing floors, chapels and the windmills at the end. Moderate difficulty, no shade, a few stretches of loose stone.

Start early in the morning from Chora, eat matsata in Ano Meria and come back on the bus, or do it the other way round in the afternoon and walk into Chora with the sunset. If you have a scooter, leave it in Chora and take the bus back, or ask Road Runner to bring it to Ano Meria.

The lighthouse of 1919 stands on the island's south-western tip, and the path that starts from Ano Meria reaches it in about an hour, first on a dirt track and then on a footpath between terraces, with the sea slowly opening up in front of you. It is Folegandros's most impressive short hike and its most dramatic sunset.

Leave the scooter or ATV in Ano Meria, at the start of the path, not on a dirt track. If you go for the sunset you come back in the dark: a torch is compulsory, a jacket for the wind, and start back as soon as the sun is gone. Livadaki, the bay below the lighthouse road, combines with an afternoon swim.

The island's best beaches have no road, and that is the point of them.

• Livadi to Katergo, about 30 minutes: from the southern end of Livadi the path climbs the hill and drops to Katergo, the most spectacular beach in Folegandros. No shade; return on foot or, in summer, by the small boat.
• Agali to Galifos to Agios Nikolaos, 10 and 20 minutes: the coastal path from the western end of Agali passes Galifos and ends at Agios Nikolaos, with tavernas and shade. Easy, stony at the end.
• Agali to Fira, 20 minutes: in the opposite direction, under the cliffs, to Fira and total quiet.
• Karavostasi to Vardia, 10 minutes: from the northern end of the port above the rocks to Vardia.
• Ano Meria to Ambeli, Ligaria, Livadaki: dirt track, then 10 to 15 minutes of steep path; see each beach page.

For all of the above you reach the trailhead by scooter on asphalt, except the three from Ano Meria, which need an ATV. The details of every access are in the beaches guide.

The zigzag path to the Panagia climbs from Pounta square to the white church above Chora in 15 to 20 minutes, about 380 steps, with a view over the whole south coast. It is the walk everyone does, at sunset or early in the morning when it is empty.

Inside Chora, the Kastro of 1212 and the three squares make an unplanned hour's stroll, with the lanes on the cliff edge on the western side. In Ano Meria the village straggles two kilometres along the road: an hour on foot between threshing floors, chapels and the Folklore Museum.

Below Chora, in the cliff, opens Chrysospilia, the ancient cave that is seen only from the sea and is closed to visitors; you see it from the excursion boat. See the Chora guide and the things to do guide.

Durations are for an average pace without stops. Five things in every backpack: two litres of water, a hat, closed shoes, sunscreen and a torch if there is any chance night finds you out there.