What Ano Meria is (and why it doesn't look like a village)
Five kilometres northwest of Chora, Ano Meria stretches along the main road with no centre, no square, no 'set piece'. It is a living farming settlement of themonies — Folegandros' self-sufficient farmsteads, each with its own threshing floor, oven and cistern — where residents still grow crops, harvest and graze goats on the stone terraces. This is the island as it existed before tourism. The ride from Chora is one of the loveliest short drives in the Cyclades: a ridgeline with the sea on both sides.
The Folklore Museum: a farmstead you can step into
To understand what you're looking at, start with the Folklore (Ecological & Folk) Museum: a restored themonia showing how an Ano Meria family lived — the wine press, the wood oven, the harvest tools, the threshing floor. It opens in the summer months, usually in the afternoons, for a token fee. It won't take more than 30–40 minutes, but it changes how you see the rest of the island: the dry-stone walls and threshing circles you pass everywhere suddenly make sense.
Matsata and tavernas: where the island eats
Ano Meria is Folegandros' culinary capital. In its tavernas — simple, family-run, with tables in courtyards — you'll eat the island's best matsata: hand-rolled pasta traditionally served with rooster or rabbit in tomato sauce. Pair it with souroto cheese, local eggs and house wine. Portions are generous and prices are farm prices, not tourist prices. An extra reason to come in the evening: the ride back to Chora under the stars, village lights flickering in the distance, is a small journey in itself.
Ano Meria's beaches: the gateway west
All roads to the island's wild shores start at Ano Meria: the dirt road to Agios Georgios in the north, the tracks to Livadaki and Ambeli in the west, and the old footpaths for those who prefer to hike. None of these beaches has a canteen — stock up at the village grocery stores before heading down. This is also where a 4×4 ATV goes from luxury to necessity: the descents to the sea are steep and gravelly, and you want a vehicle with grip and brakes you trust.
The ATV for western Folegandros
4×4, gravel-ready suspension and two seats — the CFORCE handles Livadaki, Ambeli and Agios Georgios descents safely.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I get to Ano Meria from Chora?
- It's 5 km of good asphalt — 10 minutes by scooter or ATV. There's also a bus on a sparse timetable, but for the beaches beyond the village you'll need your own vehicle.
- Is Ano Meria worth it if I only have one day on the island?
- Yes — if only for the ride and a matsata lunch. If time is tight, pair it with a swim at Agios Georgios or Livadaki and loop back via Chora for sunset.
- Are there shops and fuel in Ano Meria?
- There are grocery stores and tavernas, but the island's petrol station is near Chora — fill up before you come. Our vehicles are always handed over fuelled.
Related guides
Folegandros Beaches: The Complete Guide to Every Shore on the Island
Katergo, Agali, Livadaki, Ambeli and every beach on Folegandros: how to get there, what each one is like, and which vehicle you need.
Exploring Folegandros: The Ultimate 3-Day Scooter & ATV Itinerary
A 3-day route from Karavostasis and Chora to Agali, Katergo and Ano Meria.
Folegandros Chora: A Guide to One of the Most Beautiful Villages in the Cyclades
The Kastro, three squares, Panagia church and a sunset from a 200-metre cliff: everything you need to know about Folegandros Chora.
