Folegandros Chora: A Guide to One of the Most Beautiful Villages in the Cyclades

Built on the edge of a 200-metre cliff above the Aegean, Folegandros Chora consistently ranks among the most beautiful villages in the Cyclades — and it has stayed authentic. You won't find chain stores or staged photo-sets here; you'll find whitewashed lanes, bougainvillea, sunbathing cats and life flowing around three consecutive little squares. The village is entirely pedestrian, which makes it perfect for aimless wandering — the island's favourite sport. It sits 3 km from Karavostasi port, less than 10 minutes by scooter.

The heart of Chora is the Kastro, a fortified settlement from the 13th century, dating to the Venetian rule of Marco Sanudo. The houses here were built wall-to-wall, their outer backs forming the fortification itself — you enter through low archways into a labyrinth of painted wooden balconies, outdoor staircases and pot-filled courtyards. It is still inhabited, so wander quietly and respectfully. At its rim, windows open straight onto the void above the sea — one of the island's most striking sights.

Chora's life is organized around three squares flowing one into the next: Pounta with its café tables under the trees, Kontarka square, and the Piatsa with the tavernas. In the evening the tables spill out under the mulberry trees and it's hard to tell where one place ends and the next begins. Try matsata — the handmade local pasta served with rooster or rabbit — and souroto, the fresh local cheese. Finish the night with rakomelo in one of the little bars in the lanes. Tip: in August, book your dinner table by late afternoon.

Above Chora, at the top of the rock, gleams the church of Panagia — Folegandros' trademark. The zigzag paved path starts at Pounta square and climbs in a relaxed 15–20 minutes, the view opening wider at every bend: Chora from above, and the Aegean stretching to Sikinos and Santorini on clear days. Head up 45 minutes before sunset, claim a ledge, and stay until the village lights come on. Bring a light jacket — it's almost always breezy — and a phone torch for the way down.

Chora is pedestrian-only, but parking is easy on two wheels or an ATV: there are parking areas at the village entrances (on the port road and towards Ano Meria), and with a scooter you'll always find a spot — with a car in August, not necessarily. Best times to wander: morning before 11 for quiet lanes and photo light, and of course sunset. With your own vehicle you can easily pair Chora with a swim at Agali or a post-beach dinner — everything is 10 minutes away.