Folegandros Sunset Spots: The 6 Best Places and How to Reach Them

Folegandros faces the sunset. Chora sits on the edge of a cliff of roughly 200 metres on the north-western side, the island's spine runs from south-east to north-west, and the west coast is a wall of rock with nothing between it and the horizon but sea.

That geography does three things: the sun goes down into open water almost wherever you stand, the cliffs hold the last light for a long time after it has gone, and the villages have built their evening around it. On a summer evening the whole of Chora drifts west at the same hour.

This guide gathers the spots that are worth the walk or the ride, how far each one is from Chora, when to be there and what to do afterwards. For the rest of the island start with the Folegandros travel guide.

The Panagia church

The classic. The white zigzag path climbs from Pounta square to the church of the Panagia in 15 to 20 minutes; the terrace in front faces west over Chora, the cliffs and the sea. In July and August the whole island climbs it, so arrive half an hour early for a place on the wall. No vehicle needed.

The Kastro and the squares

If you would rather not climb, the medieval Kastro quarter, built around 1212, has its outer houses on the very edge of the cliff; the lanes on its western side and the steps below the walls frame the sun between whitewashed houses. Then walk twenty steps back into Pounta, Piatsa or Dounavi square, where the tables face the light.

The Ano Meria road and the windmills

Ride the spine road 5 km north-west; the stretch above Ano Meria, with the windmills, looks over the whole western half of the island. Pull off safely on a wide bend, never on the carriageway. Scooter or ATV, 10 minutes from Chora, almost no crowds.

The Aspropounta lighthouse

The lighthouse of 1919 stands on the south-western tip, about an hour on foot from Ano Meria on a marked path. It is the most dramatic sunset on the island and the most committing: you walk back in the dark, so take a torch and a jacket, and leave the vehicle at the start of the path above Ano Meria.

Agali and Agios Nikolaos, from the beach or the water

The south-coast beaches face south-west, so a late swim at Agali or Agios Nikolaos ends with the sun going down over the water. In July and August the last boats back from Agios Nikolaos run until early evening; ask at Agali. The tavernas at Agali serve dinner with the view.

Fira and Livadaki for the committed

Two walk-in beaches with a clear view to the west: Fira, 20 minutes from Agali, and Livadaki below the lighthouse road. Both mean returning on an unlit path; torch, and start back the moment the sun is gone.

Times are from Chora. For the beach paths see each beach page and the beaches guide.

The sun sets at roughly 20:30 to 21:00 in June and July, around 20:00 by late August, around 19:30 in September and at about 19:00 in October. Check the exact time for the day on your phone and be at the spot 30 to 40 minutes early: the best light is often the half hour before, and the glow on the cliffs lasts another twenty minutes after.

The meltemi usually drops at dusk, but the west-facing terraces are exposed, so bring a long sleeve even in August. For the winds by month see the best time to visit guide.

Chora's squares fill the moment the sun is gone. Pounta with its garden, the tables in Piatsa and Dounavi, Astarti with the view and Eva's Garden are all a few steps from the Kastro, so no vehicle is needed for dinner in Chora. In July and August ask in the afternoon for a table in the evening.

If you did the sunset at Agali, the beach tavernas serve dinner with the view and the road back to Chora is 10 minutes of asphalt. From Ano Meria, the village tavernas with their matsata are the natural next stop before the ride home.

Where to eat, with dishes and areas, in the where to eat guide and the Chora guide.

Outside the villages there is no street lighting. The road from Ano Meria back to Chora is 5 km of bends, and after dark the goats come out onto the tarmac. Ride slowly on full beam, wear the helmet, keep right, and do not take a dirt track at night for any reason. If you drank at the sunset, walk or take the bus.

Road Runner scooters come with helmets and a 24-hour phone line if anything goes wrong; see the scooter rental page and the prices. For riding on the island in general, see the driving guide.