Karavostasi, the Port of Folegandros: Arrival, Beaches, Tavernas and the Way Up to Chora

Karavostasi is Folegandros's only port, a small bay on the east coast 3 km below Chora, where every ship from Piraeus, Santorini, Milos and the other islands docks. The village is one seafront of tavernas, rooms, a couple of mini-markets, ticket agencies and the beach that starts a few steps from the quay.

There is no ATM at the port, the island's two are in Chora, and no lift or trolleys on the quay; luggage is carried by hand. When the ship docks the quay fills for ten minutes with rental staff, room owners and the bus, then empties again.

For how to get here, see the guide on how to get to Folegandros and the ferry guides from Santorini, Athens and Milos.

Chora is 3 km uphill from the port, a paved road with hairpins that climbs about 200 metres. Four ways:

Most accommodation in Chora offers a transfer if you tell them the ferry time. The simplest, though, is to leave the quay on your own scooter or ATV and have the first swim on the way. See the prices page and the driving guide for the road.

Karavostasi has the island's easiest collection of beaches, all without a vehicle.

• Karavostasi, a few steps from the quay: pebbles over a sandy seabed, shallow calm water, tamarisks, sunbeds, showers and tavernas. The beach for families and for the swim before the ferry.
• Vardia, ten minutes on foot to the north: a small bay of pebbles and sand, no shade, nobody.
• Livadi, one kilometre south on the paved road: a wide beach with tamarisks, a taverna, showers and the island's campsite. From its far end starts the path to Katergo, half an hour, the most spectacular beach in Folegandros; in summer a small boat also goes from the port.

The meltemi ruffles the eastern bay a little on strong days, but on the others the water is flat. For every beach with access and facilities, see the beaches guide.

The seafront of Karavostasi is the island's place for fish: the boats tie up next to the tables and the tavernas, with Kati Allo and Kalymnios the names you hear, cook whatever the day brought in. Ask what is fresh. Rooms and hotels, Anemi among them, spread around the bay.

In summer the excursion boats leave from the port for the tour of the island and the south-coast beaches, Katergo, Agali, Agios Nikolaos, passing below Chora and Chrysospilia, the ancient cave in the cliff that is seen only from the sea. The diving trips also start here in season. Sailings depend on the weather; ask on the seafront the day before.

Chora has the lanes, the squares, the sunset and most of the restaurants; it is where you want to be in the evening. Karavostasi has the beach at your feet, quiet, warmer water in the morning and zero stress about the ferry. Many people do this: the first nights in Chora, the last one at the port for a morning ferry.

With your own vehicle the distance stops mattering: ten minutes of asphalt, and at night the road is empty. Without one, the bus covers the basics but not the late returns after dinner. See the where to stay guide and the Chora guide.